Madrid: Helena Rohner
At 10 a.m. the Latina neighborhood of Madrid is absent the evening hustle and flow of tapas-seeking crowds. Nevertheless, a steady stream of shoppers makes a detour here — young women in vintage dresses, bourgeois mothers with blunt -cut hair, elderly ladies in nubby furs — ducking down Calle Almendro and buzzing the bell marked “Helena Rohner” on an unassuming 19th-century apartment building. They come to Ms. Rohner’s studio to scoop up her organic jewelry designs (for men, women and children) and home décor items.
Open the door and you’re in an artist’s workshop. Ms. Rohner, gamine and tidy with strawberry-blond hair and bright lipstick, oversees her team as they polish and shine. “They are made to be worn, to adapt to your body, to be comfortable, well made and not trendy,” said Ms. Rohner, 39, of her silver and gold rings for men and women, some set with wood, ebony or porcelain. She tries on a large, circular ebony ring (151 euros, or $222, at $1.50 to the euro), and a ring with a swooping base set with a dollop of black porcelain (120 euros).
Her necklaces, cuff links and rings set with wood and silver are particularly striking, as are the earrings enhanced with coral, and a gold collection with wedding rings made to order. Paul Smith sells a collection of her men’s jewelry.
The home-goods collection includes a ceramic tea set that looks like a Jonathan Adler adaptation meets Art Deco on the set of “Barbarella,” and a wood candlestick set inlaid with silver. Georg Jensen recently commissioned Ms. Rohner to create a steel tea-set collection.
Yet jewelry remains her special focus, she said. “Jewelry is a question of light, the light you add to your body.”
Helena Rohner, Calle Almendro, 4, b-d ; (34-91) 365-7906; www.helenarohner.com.
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